TY - JOUR T1 - Stability of the Fungal Pigment from Scytalidium cuboideum Carried in Food-Grade Natural Oils JF - Journal of Fungi Y1 - 2022 A1 - Hinsch,Eric A1 - Gutierrez,Sarah A1 - Van Court,R. C. A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Robinson,Sara KW - Design Program AB - Wood-staining fungal pigments have shown potential use as colorants for wood and textiles, with organic solvents as the pigment carrier. Natural oils have been suggested as an environmentally friendly and more available carrier; however, oils promoted color degradation. The current study examined the mechanism of said degradation and tested therapeutic and food-grade oils (instead of finishing oils) for their potential to carry draconin red, the pigment from Scytalidium cuboideum, without color loss over time. FTIR analysis from finishing oils indicated that oxidation was not likely the cause of color loss as the pigment could not be distinguished from the oils in the IR spectra. SEM was employed to determine if crystal degradation was contributing to color loss and indicated, surprisingly, that the crystals of draconin red formed rather than degraded over time. This suggested crystal breakdown was also not likely the cause of color loss. The pigment did not show degradation in hemp oil, flaxseed oil, and cold-pressed linseed oil when treated with β-carotene. Further in- depth chemical studies are needed to determine the mechanism of color loss in pigmented natural oils; however, food-grade oils appear to be a promising alternative to carry draconin red, without degradation of the color. CY - Basel UR - https:// doi.org/10.3390/jof8030276 U2 - a U4 - 233020801024 ID - 233020801024 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Inkjet Printing and In-situ Crystallization of Biopigments for Eco-Friendly and Energy-Efficient Fabric Coloration JF - International Journal of Precision and Engineering -Green Technology Y1 - 2021 A1 - He,Y. A1 - Hwang,H-J A1 - Gutierrez,M. A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Robinson,S. A1 - Chang,C.H. A1 - Malhotra,R. KW - Design Program AB - Current methods of fabric dyeing have a significant negative effect on the environment via toxic effluent emissions, high water usage, and high energy consumption. We demonstrate, for the first time, low-energy inkjet printing of an ecofriendly and biodegradable pigment derived from widely available spalting fungi with synthesis by-products that are fully biodegradable. Vivid and stable coloration is achieved on polyester and cotton using benign acetone-based and ethanol-based biopigment inks, with no liquid effluent or runoff, and without any synthetic dyes or mordants. We investigate the influence of fabric type, solvent type, and the number of printing passes on the color type, intensity, and uniformity, pigment crystallization, and environmental stability. Greater spatial definition of the printed pigment in inkjet printing effects greater crystallization and more vivid and uniform coloration as compared to drop-casting, the primary method used till date to color fabrics with such fungal biopigments. pH-driven interactions between the fabric, solvent, and biopigment cause solvent-driven changes in color type (from bluish to reddish) and fabric-governed changes in color intensity. The impact of our findings on minimizing the environmental impact of fabric dyeing is discussed. CY - New York, NY UR - https://doi.org/10.1007/s40684-021-00360-5 U2 - a U4 - 219517308928 ID - 219517308928 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Oil-Based Fungal Pigment from Scytalidium cuboideum as a Textile Dye JF - Journal of Fungi Y1 - 2020 A1 - Palomino,M. A1 - Gutierrez,S. A1 - Van-Court,R.C. A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Robinson,S. KW - Design Program CY - Switzerland VL - 62 UR - https://doi.org/10.3390/jof6020053 CP - 2 U2 - a U4 - 202611316736 ID - 202611316736 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Feasibility and Surface Evaluation of the Pigment from Scytalidium cuboideum for Ink-jet Printing on Textiles JF - Coatings Y1 - 2019 A1 - Gutierrez,Sarath Vega A1 - He,Yujuan A1 - Cao,Yu A1 - Stone,Derek A1 - Walsh,Zielle A1 - Malhotra,Rajiv A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Chang,Chih-Hung A1 - Robinson,Seri KW - Design Program VL - 9 UR - https://doi.org/10.3390/coatings9040266 CP - 4 U2 - a U4 - 183931183104 ID - 183931183104 ER - TY - CONF T1 - Motivations and level of internalization of Muslim women wearing the hijab in a Western society T2 - International Textile and Apparel Association Y1 - 2019 A1 - Maqsood,Elham A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program JA - International Textile and Apparel Association U2 - b U4 - 202608510976 ID - 202608510976 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - The Effect of Textiles on Clothing Physiological Comfort While Backpacking in the Cold JF - Journal of Textile Engineering and Fashion Technology Y1 - 2017 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Baker,Lynn A1 - Cluver,Brigitte KW - Design Program VL - 2 UR - http://medcraveonline.com/JTEFT/JTEFT-02-00044.php CP - 1 U2 - a U4 - 155085049856 ID - 155085049856 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Effects of Green Self-Identity and Cognitive and Affective Involvement on Patronage Intention in Eco-Friendly Apparel Consumption: A Gender Comparison JF - Sustainability Y1 - 2017 A1 - Tung,Tsun-Yin A1 - Koenig,Hal A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program KW - Marketing VL - 9 UR - https://susy.mdpi.com/user/manuscripts/review_info/a93e23e2230a2e241bcbbe93b410b901 U2 - a U4 - 108790247424 ID - 108790247424 ER - TY - CONF T1 - Effects pf Green Self-Identity and Gender Influences on Consumers' Involvement and Patronage Intention in Eco-Apparel Consumption T2 - Association for Consumer Research Y1 - 2017 A1 - Tung,Tsun-Yin A1 - Koenig,Hal A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program KW - Marketing JA - Association for Consumer Research CY - San Diego, California U2 - b U4 - 144725282816 ID - 144725282816 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - The Hijab and Muslim Women's Well-being in a Western Society Y1 - 2017 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Maqsood,Elham KW - Design Program JA - International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference CY - St. Petersburg, Florida U2 - c U4 - 155085479936 ID - 155085479936 ER - TY - CONF T1 - The Hijab and Muslim Women's Well-being in a Western Society T2 - International Textile and Apparel Association Y1 - 2017 A1 - Maqsood,Elham A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program JA - International Textile and Apparel Association CY - St. Petersburger, Florida U2 - b U4 - 144725313536 ID - 144725313536 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Wood-rotting fungal pigments as colorants in oil-based textile dyes JF - Coatings Y1 - 2017 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Palomino,Mardonio A1 - Gutierrez,Vega A1 - Robinson,Sara KW - Design Program VL - 7 UR - http://www.mdpi.com/2079-6412/7/10/152/html CP - 152 U2 - a U4 - 155085180928 ID - 155085180928 ER - TY - CONF T1 - The Modification of Muslim Women’s Hijab to Meet Modern Life Styles in a Western Society T2 - International Textile and Apparel Association Y1 - 2016 A1 - Maqsood,Elham A1 - Cluver,Brigitte A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program AB - Women residing in non‑Muslim countries have indicated that they have experienced negative feedback from others due to their use of the hijab (Ruby, 2006; El-Ghobashy, 2011). The impact of Muslim women’s experiences on their use of the hijab has received little attention from researchers (Tarlo, 2010). Therefore, the purpose of this research was to investigate why and how a group of Muslim women developed and adopted a variation of the hijab, the Multipurpose Modern Hijab (MMH), to wear while living in the United States. Results show that participants developed a hijab alternative that they believe retains its ability to communicate their religious beliefs and commitment to Allah, but also is easier to put on and keep on, more comfortable, and more accepted by the non-Muslim community. One major challenge participants noted is finding a single fabric that meets their needs in terms of aesthetics and comfort; there is a need for fabrics that are designed specially for hijab users. JA - International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Vancouver U2 - b U4 - 144725635072 ID - 144725635072 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Colorfastness of extracted wood-staining fungal pigments on fabrics - a new potential for textile dyes JF - Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management Y1 - 2015 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Weber,G. A1 - Hinsch,E. A1 - Robinson,S. KW - Design Program AB - In this study, pigments In this study, pigments from three species of pigmenting fungi, Chlorociboria aeruginosa (xylindein, green), Scytalidium cuboideum (draconin red, red), and Scytalidium ganodermophtherum (yellow), were used to dye multi-fabric test strips. Tests for color stability and tests for colorfastness to washing with and without bleach, and to perspiration, were conducted. Color readings were taken using a colorimeter, and color differences were statistically determined based on overall color change as calculated using the CIE L*a*b* color space. The results indicated that all three pigments were stable over time, indicating that these pigments can be used for fabric dyeing, eliminating the need for additional chemicals or heat as is required for traditional fabric dyes. Xylindein and draconin red exhibited good colorfastness to washing, and xylindein good colorfastness to perspiration. These results indicate that xylindein shows good potential as a dye for garment fabrics, and draconin red shows good potential as a dye for second-layer garment fabrics. VL - 9 UR - http://ojs.cnr.ncsu.edu/index.php/JTATM CP - 3 U2 - a U4 - 108788654080 ID - 108788654080 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Pigments extracted from the wood-staining fungi Chlorociboria aeruginosa, Scytalidium cuboideum and S. ganodermophthorum show potential for use as textile dyes JF - Color Technology Y1 - 2014 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Weber,G. A1 - Hinsch,E. A1 - Freitas,S. A1 - Robinson,S. KW - Design Program AB - A growing interest in the use of naturally produced pigments for textile dyeing has led to increased efforts towards the identification of such pigments that are less toxic, more sustainable, and more stable over time than currently used synthetic compounds. This work utilised various concentrations of green, red, and yellow pigments extracted with dichloromethane from the wood-staining fungi Chlorociboria aeruginosa, Scytalidium cuboideum, and S. ganodermophthorum, respectively, for the effective dyeing of bleached cotton, spun polyamide (nylon 6.6), spun polyester (Dacron 54), spun polyacrylic, and worsted wool. All three pigments utilised in this study show significant potential for use as textile dyes. Colour changes suggested that drip application methods were superior to submersion using dichloromethane. Colour changes as compared with the untreated fabrics were most significant on polyester, which is likely due to increased levels of polymer swelling in polyester exposed to dichloromethane. VL - 130 UR - http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/cote.12110/abstract?deniedAccessCustomisedMessage=&userIsAuthenticated=false CP - 6 U2 - a U4 - 89255393280 ID - 89255393280 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - The Saudi Arabian traditional clothes as an inspiration for fashionable and modern designs Y1 - 2014 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Maqsood,Elham KW - Design Program JA - Annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Charlotte, NC U2 - c U4 - 108893661184 ID - 108893661184 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Consumer Perceptions Regarding the Limited Lifespan of Fast Fashion Apparel JF - Research Journal of Textile and Apparel Y1 - 2013 A1 - Collett,Miriam A1 - Cluver,Brigitte A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program VL - 17 CP - 2 U2 - a U4 - 71127326720 ID - 71127326720 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - The effect of textiles on perceived physiological comfort while backpacking in the cold Y1 - 2013 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Baker,Lynn A1 - Cluver,Brigitte KW - Design Program JA - Annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - New Orleans U2 - c U4 - 89053063168 ID - 89053063168 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - The impacts of different woven fabrics on three draping techniques Y1 - 2013 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Maqsood,Elham A1 - Abdulrahman,Nermeen KW - Design Program JA - Annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - New Orleans U2 - c U4 - 89053169664 ID - 89053169664 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Assessment of Poplar Seed Hair Fibers as a Potential Textile Thermal Insulation Material: Part I - Physical and Chemical Properties JF - Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Y1 - 2010 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Cluver,Brigitte KW - Design Program VL - 28 CP - 4 U2 - a U4 - 58368131072 ID - 58368131072 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Biodegradation and mildew resistance of naturally colored cottons JF - Textile Research Journal Y1 - 2010 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Cluver,Brigitte KW - Design Program VL - 80 CP - 20 U2 - a U4 - 58368028672 ID - 58368028672 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Microbiological Resistance of Naturally Colored Cottons Y1 - 2009 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Cluver,Brigitte KW - Design Program JA - Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Chicago, Illinois U2 - c U4 - 58368706560 ID - 58368706560 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Study of Thermal Properties of Military Ballistic Helmets by Thermal Manikin and Human Subjects Y1 - 2008 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Cluver,Brigitte KW - Design Program JA - Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Seattle, WA U2 - c U4 - 71127185408 ID - 71127185408 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Thermal Insulation Properties of Military Ballistic Helmet Internal Systems Y1 - 2007 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Culver,B KW - Design Program JA - Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Los Angeles, CA U2 - c U4 - 58368731136 ID - 58368731136 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Assessment of Physical and Chemical Characteristics of Poplar Seed Hair Fibers as a Potential Bulk Textile Thermal Insulation Material Y1 - 2006 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program JA - International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference CY - San Antonio, TX U2 - c U4 - 58368778240 ID - 58368778240 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Environmental Analysis of Textile Products JF - Clothing and Textiles Research Journal Y1 - 2006 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Burns,Leslie KW - Design Program VL - 24 CP - 3 U2 - a U4 - 58368165888 ID - 58368165888 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Study of the Effect of Laundering on Naturally Colored Cottons by Swelling Reagents Y1 - 2005 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Moore,Mary Ann A1 - Kantor,Natalie KW - Design Program JA - Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Alexandra, VA U2 - c U4 - 58368808960 ID - 58368808960 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Study of Naturally Colored Cottons via Surface IR Spectroscopy and Swelling Reagents Y1 - 2004 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program JA - Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Portland, 91ÆÞÓÑ U2 - c U4 - 58368831488 ID - 58368831488 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Microwave Radiation Decontamination of Mildew Infected Cotton JF - Textile Research Journal Y1 - 2001 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program VL - 71 CP - 3 U2 - a U4 - 58368335872 ID - 58368335872 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - X-Ray Diffractometric Study of Microcrystallite Size of Naturally Colored Cotton JF - Journal of Applied Polymer Science Y1 - 2000 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Yokochi,A KW - Design Program VL - 76 U2 - a U4 - 58368372736 ID - 58368372736 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - X-Ray Diffractometric Analysis of Microstructure of Naturally Colored Cotton Y1 - 1999 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program JA - American Chemical Society National Meeting CY - Anaheim, CA U2 - c U4 - 58369032192 ID - 58369032192 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - X-Ray Diffractometric Study of the Effects of Laundry on the Microcrystallite Size of Naturally Colored Cottons Y1 - 1999 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program JA - Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Santa Fe, NM U2 - c U4 - 58368876544 ID - 58368876544 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Microwave Disinfestation of Cellulytic Fungi and Effects of Microwave Radiation on Cellulose Fiber Microstructure Y1 - 1998 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program JA - Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Dallas, TX U2 - c U4 - 58369206272 ID - 58369206272 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Preservation of Archaeological Cellulosic Fibers Through Mineralization JF - Journal of Archaeological Science Y1 - 1998 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Jakes,K A A1 - Foreman ,D W KW - Design Program CP - 25 U2 - a U4 - 58368518144 ID - 58368518144 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Laboratory Simulation of Plant Fiber Mineralization Y1 - 1997 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Foreman,D W A1 - Jakes,K A KW - Design Program JA - Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Knoxville, TN U2 - c U4 - 58369234944 ID - 58369234944 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Characterizing Naturally Colored Cotton Fibers by ATR Infrared Spectroscopy Y1 - 1996 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program JA - Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association CY - Banff, Alberta, Canada U2 - c U4 - 58369255424 ID - 58369255424 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - SEM, EDS, and FTIR Examination of Archaeological Mineralized Plant Fibers JF - Textile Research Journal Y1 - 1996 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Jakes,K A A1 - Foreman,D W KW - Design Program VL - 64 CP - 4 U2 - a U4 - 58368606208 ID - 58368606208 ER - TY - HEAR T1 - Diffractometric Study of Archaeological Mineralized Plant Fiber Microstructure Y1 - 1995 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Foreman,D W A1 - Jakes,K A KW - Design Program JA - American Chemical Society National Meeting CY - Anaheim, CA U2 - c U4 - 58369275904 ID - 58369275904 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Experimental Methods For The Analysis of Dye Desorption JF - Textile Chemist and Colorist Y1 - 1995 A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Noel,C J KW - Design Program VL - 27 CP - 2 U2 - a U4 - 58368638976 ID - 58368638976 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Application of Recycled Post-Consumer Fibers JF - Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal Y1 - 1994 A1 - Chang,Y A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien KW - Design Program VL - 27 CP - 1 U2 - a U4 - 58368483328 ID - 58368483328 ER - TY - JOUR T1 - Toward the Development of a Classification System for Plant Fibers JF - Ars Textrina Y1 - 1993 A1 - Jakes,K A A1 - Chen,Hsiou-Lien A1 - Sibley,L R KW - Design Program VL - 20 U2 - a U4 - 58368673792 ID - 58368673792 ER -