%0 Journal Article %J Journal of Fungi %D 2022 %T Stability of the Fungal Pigment from Scytalidium cuboideum Carried in Food-Grade Natural Oils %A Hinsch,Eric %A Gutierrez,Sarah %A Van Court,R. C. %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Robinson,Sara %K Design Program %X Wood-staining fungal pigments have shown potential use as colorants for wood and textiles, with organic solvents as the pigment carrier. Natural oils have been suggested as an environmentally friendly and more available carrier; however, oils promoted color degradation. The current study examined the mechanism of said degradation and tested therapeutic and food-grade oils (instead of finishing oils) for their potential to carry draconin red, the pigment from Scytalidium cuboideum, without color loss over time. FTIR analysis from finishing oils indicated that oxidation was not likely the cause of color loss as the pigment could not be distinguished from the oils in the IR spectra. SEM was employed to determine if crystal degradation was contributing to color loss and indicated, surprisingly, that the crystals of draconin red formed rather than degraded over time. This suggested crystal breakdown was also not likely the cause of color loss. The pigment did not show degradation in hemp oil, flaxseed oil, and cold-pressed linseed oil when treated with β-carotene. Further in- depth chemical studies are needed to determine the mechanism of color loss in pigmented natural oils; however, food-grade oils appear to be a promising alternative to carry draconin red, without degradation of the color. %B Journal of Fungi %C Basel %P 276-293 %8 2022 %G eng %U https:// doi.org/10.3390/jof8030276 %2 a %4 233020801024 %$ 233020801024 %0 Journal Article %J International Journal of Precision and Engineering -Green Technology %D 2021 %T Inkjet Printing and In-situ Crystallization of Biopigments for Eco-Friendly and Energy-Efficient Fabric Coloration %A He,Y. %A Hwang,H-J %A Gutierrez,M. %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Robinson,S. %A Chang,C.H. %A Malhotra,R. %K Design Program %X Current methods of fabric dyeing have a significant negative effect on the environment via toxic effluent emissions, high water usage, and high energy consumption. We demonstrate, for the first time, low-energy inkjet printing of an ecofriendly and biodegradable pigment derived from widely available spalting fungi with synthesis by-products that are fully biodegradable. Vivid and stable coloration is achieved on polyester and cotton using benign acetone-based and ethanol-based biopigment inks, with no liquid effluent or runoff, and without any synthetic dyes or mordants. We investigate the influence of fabric type, solvent type, and the number of printing passes on the color type, intensity, and uniformity, pigment crystallization, and environmental stability. Greater spatial definition of the printed pigment in inkjet printing effects greater crystallization and more vivid and uniform coloration as compared to drop-casting, the primary method used till date to color fabrics with such fungal biopigments. pH-driven interactions between the fabric, solvent, and biopigment cause solvent-driven changes in color type (from bluish to reddish) and fabric-governed changes in color intensity. The impact of our findings on minimizing the environmental impact of fabric dyeing is discussed. %B International Journal of Precision and Engineering -Green Technology %C New York, NY %P 1-13 %8 2021 %G eng %U https://doi.org/10.1007/s40684-021-00360-5 %2 a %4 219517308928 %$ 219517308928 %0 Journal Article %J Journal of Fungi %D 2020 %T Oil-Based Fungal Pigment from Scytalidium cuboideum as a Textile Dye %A Palomino,M. %A Gutierrez,S. %A Van-Court,R.C. %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Robinson,S. %K Design Program %B Journal of Fungi %C Switzerland %V 62 %P 53 %8 2020 %G eng %U https://doi.org/10.3390/jof6020053 %N 2 %2 a %4 202611316736 %$ 202611316736 %0 Journal Article %J Coatings %D 2019 %T Feasibility and Surface Evaluation of the Pigment from Scytalidium cuboideum for Ink-jet Printing on Textiles %A Gutierrez,Sarath Vega %A He,Yujuan %A Cao,Yu %A Stone,Derek %A Walsh,Zielle %A Malhotra,Rajiv %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Chang,Chih-Hung %A Robinson,Seri %K Design Program %B Coatings %V 9 %P 266 %8 2019 %G eng %U https://doi.org/10.3390/coatings9040266 %N 4 %2 a %4 183931183104 %$ 183931183104 %0 Conference Paper %B International Textile and Apparel Association %D 2019 %T Motivations and level of internalization of Muslim women wearing the hijab in a Western society %A Maqsood,Elham %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B International Textile and Apparel Association %8 2019 %G eng %2 b %4 202608510976 %$ 202608510976 %0 Journal Article %J Journal of Textile Engineering and Fashion Technology %D 2017 %T The Effect of Textiles on Clothing Physiological Comfort While Backpacking in the Cold %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Baker,Lynn %A Cluver,Brigitte %K Design Program %B Journal of Textile Engineering and Fashion Technology %V 2 %8 2017 %G eng %U http://medcraveonline.com/JTEFT/JTEFT-02-00044.php %N 1 %2 a %4 155085049856 %$ 155085049856 %0 Journal Article %J Sustainability %D 2017 %T Effects of Green Self-Identity and Cognitive and Affective Involvement on Patronage Intention in Eco-Friendly Apparel Consumption: A Gender Comparison %A Tung,Tsun-Yin %A Koenig,Hal %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %K Marketing %B Sustainability %V 9 %8 2017 %G eng %U https://susy.mdpi.com/user/manuscripts/review_info/a93e23e2230a2e241bcbbe93b410b901 %2 a %4 108790247424 %$ 108790247424 %0 Conference Paper %B Association for Consumer Research %D 2017 %T Effects pf Green Self-Identity and Gender Influences on Consumers' Involvement and Patronage Intention in Eco-Apparel Consumption %A Tung,Tsun-Yin %A Koenig,Hal %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %K Marketing %B Association for Consumer Research %C San Diego, California %8 2017 %G eng %2 b %4 144725282816 %$ 144725282816 %0 Generic %D 2017 %T The Hijab and Muslim Women's Well-being in a Western Society %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Maqsood,Elham %K Design Program %B International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference %C St. Petersburg, Florida %8 2017 %G eng %2 c %4 155085479936 %$ 155085479936 %0 Conference Paper %B International Textile and Apparel Association %D 2017 %T The Hijab and Muslim Women's Well-being in a Western Society %A Maqsood,Elham %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B International Textile and Apparel Association %C St. Petersburger, Florida %8 2017 %G eng %2 b %4 144725313536 %$ 144725313536 %0 Journal Article %J Coatings %D 2017 %T Wood-rotting fungal pigments as colorants in oil-based textile dyes %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Palomino,Mardonio %A Gutierrez,Vega %A Robinson,Sara %K Design Program %B Coatings %V 7 %8 2017 %G eng %U http://www.mdpi.com/2079-6412/7/10/152/html %N 152 %2 a %4 155085180928 %$ 155085180928 %0 Conference Paper %B International Textile and Apparel Association %D 2016 %T The Modification of Muslim Women’s Hijab to Meet Modern Life Styles in a Western Society %A Maqsood,Elham %A Cluver,Brigitte %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %X Women residing in non‑Muslim countries have indicated that they have experienced negative feedback from others due to their use of the hijab (Ruby, 2006; El-Ghobashy, 2011). The impact of Muslim women’s experiences on their use of the hijab has received little attention from researchers (Tarlo, 2010). Therefore, the purpose of this research was to investigate why and how a group of Muslim women developed and adopted a variation of the hijab, the Multipurpose Modern Hijab (MMH), to wear while living in the United States. Results show that participants developed a hijab alternative that they believe retains its ability to communicate their religious beliefs and commitment to Allah, but also is easier to put on and keep on, more comfortable, and more accepted by the non-Muslim community. One major challenge participants noted is finding a single fabric that meets their needs in terms of aesthetics and comfort; there is a need for fabrics that are designed specially for hijab users. %B International Textile and Apparel Association %C Vancouver %8 2016 %G eng %2 b %4 144725635072 %$ 144725635072 %0 Journal Article %J Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management %D 2015 %T Colorfastness of extracted wood-staining fungal pigments on fabrics - a new potential for textile dyes %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Weber,G. %A Hinsch,E. %A Robinson,S. %K Design Program %X In this study, pigments In this study, pigments from three species of pigmenting fungi, Chlorociboria aeruginosa (xylindein, green), Scytalidium cuboideum (draconin red, red), and Scytalidium ganodermophtherum (yellow), were used to dye multi-fabric test strips. Tests for color stability and tests for colorfastness to washing with and without bleach, and to perspiration, were conducted. Color readings were taken using a colorimeter, and color differences were statistically determined based on overall color change as calculated using the CIE L*a*b* color space. The results indicated that all three pigments were stable over time, indicating that these pigments can be used for fabric dyeing, eliminating the need for additional chemicals or heat as is required for traditional fabric dyes. Xylindein and draconin red exhibited good colorfastness to washing, and xylindein good colorfastness to perspiration. These results indicate that xylindein shows good potential as a dye for garment fabrics, and draconin red shows good potential as a dye for second-layer garment fabrics. %B Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management %V 9 %8 2015 %G eng %U http://ojs.cnr.ncsu.edu/index.php/JTATM %N 3 %2 a %4 108788654080 %$ 108788654080 %0 Journal Article %J Color Technology %D 2014 %T Pigments extracted from the wood-staining fungi Chlorociboria aeruginosa, Scytalidium cuboideum and S. ganodermophthorum show potential for use as textile dyes %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Weber,G. %A Hinsch,E. %A Freitas,S. %A Robinson,S. %K Design Program %X A growing interest in the use of naturally produced pigments for textile dyeing has led to increased efforts towards the identification of such pigments that are less toxic, more sustainable, and more stable over time than currently used synthetic compounds. This work utilised various concentrations of green, red, and yellow pigments extracted with dichloromethane from the wood-staining fungi Chlorociboria aeruginosa, Scytalidium cuboideum, and S. ganodermophthorum, respectively, for the effective dyeing of bleached cotton, spun polyamide (nylon 6.6), spun polyester (Dacron 54), spun polyacrylic, and worsted wool. All three pigments utilised in this study show significant potential for use as textile dyes. Colour changes suggested that drip application methods were superior to submersion using dichloromethane. Colour changes as compared with the untreated fabrics were most significant on polyester, which is likely due to increased levels of polymer swelling in polyester exposed to dichloromethane. %B Color Technology %V 130 %P 445-452 %8 2014 %G eng %U http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/cote.12110/abstract?deniedAccessCustomisedMessage=&userIsAuthenticated=false %N 6 %2 a %4 89255393280 %$ 89255393280 %0 Generic %D 2014 %T The Saudi Arabian traditional clothes as an inspiration for fashionable and modern designs %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Maqsood,Elham %K Design Program %B Annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Charlotte, NC %8 2014 %G eng %2 c %4 108893661184 %$ 108893661184 %0 Journal Article %J Research Journal of Textile and Apparel %D 2013 %T Consumer Perceptions Regarding the Limited Lifespan of Fast Fashion Apparel %A Collett,Miriam %A Cluver,Brigitte %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B Research Journal of Textile and Apparel %V 17 %8 2013 %G eng %N 2 %2 a %4 71127326720 %$ 71127326720 %0 Generic %D 2013 %T The effect of textiles on perceived physiological comfort while backpacking in the cold %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Baker,Lynn %A Cluver,Brigitte %K Design Program %B Annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C New Orleans %8 2013 %G eng %2 c %4 89053063168 %$ 89053063168 %0 Generic %D 2013 %T The impacts of different woven fabrics on three draping techniques %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Maqsood,Elham %A Abdulrahman,Nermeen %K Design Program %B Annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C New Orleans %8 2013 %G eng %2 c %4 89053169664 %$ 89053169664 %0 Journal Article %J Clothing and Textiles Research Journal %D 2010 %T Assessment of Poplar Seed Hair Fibers as a Potential Textile Thermal Insulation Material: Part I - Physical and Chemical Properties %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Cluver,Brigitte %K Design Program %B Clothing and Textiles Research Journal %V 28 %P 255-262 %8 2010 %G eng %N 4 %2 a %4 58368131072 %$ 58368131072 %0 Journal Article %J Textile Research Journal %D 2010 %T Biodegradation and mildew resistance of naturally colored cottons %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Cluver,Brigitte %K Design Program %B Textile Research Journal %V 80 %P 2188-2194 %8 2010 %G eng %N 20 %2 a %4 58368028672 %$ 58368028672 %0 Generic %D 2009 %T Microbiological Resistance of Naturally Colored Cottons %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Cluver,Brigitte %K Design Program %B Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Chicago, Illinois %8 2009 %G eng %2 c %4 58368706560 %$ 58368706560 %0 Generic %D 2008 %T Study of Thermal Properties of Military Ballistic Helmets by Thermal Manikin and Human Subjects %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Cluver,Brigitte %K Design Program %B Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Seattle, WA %8 2008 %G eng %2 c %4 71127185408 %$ 71127185408 %0 Generic %D 2007 %T Thermal Insulation Properties of Military Ballistic Helmet Internal Systems %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Culver,B %K Design Program %B Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Los Angeles, CA %8 2007 %G eng %2 c %4 58368731136 %$ 58368731136 %0 Generic %D 2006 %T Assessment of Physical and Chemical Characteristics of Poplar Seed Hair Fibers as a Potential Bulk Textile Thermal Insulation Material %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference %C San Antonio, TX %8 2006 %G eng %2 c %4 58368778240 %$ 58368778240 %0 Journal Article %J Clothing and Textiles Research Journal %D 2006 %T Environmental Analysis of Textile Products %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Burns,Leslie %K Design Program %B Clothing and Textiles Research Journal %V 24 %P 248-261 %8 2006 %G eng %N 3 %2 a %4 58368165888 %$ 58368165888 %0 Generic %D 2005 %T Study of the Effect of Laundering on Naturally Colored Cottons by Swelling Reagents %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Moore,Mary Ann %A Kantor,Natalie %K Design Program %B Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Alexandra, VA %8 2005 %G eng %2 c %4 58368808960 %$ 58368808960 %0 Generic %D 2004 %T Study of Naturally Colored Cottons via Surface IR Spectroscopy and Swelling Reagents %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Portland, 91ÆÞÓÑ %8 2004 %G eng %2 c %4 58368831488 %$ 58368831488 %0 Journal Article %J Textile Research Journal %D 2001 %T Microwave Radiation Decontamination of Mildew Infected Cotton %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B Textile Research Journal %V 71 %P 247-254 %8 2001 %G eng %N 3 %2 a %4 58368335872 %$ 58368335872 %0 Journal Article %J Journal of Applied Polymer Science %D 2000 %T X-Ray Diffractometric Study of Microcrystallite Size of Naturally Colored Cotton %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Yokochi,A %K Design Program %B Journal of Applied Polymer Science %V 76 %P 1466-1471 %8 2000 %G eng %2 a %4 58368372736 %$ 58368372736 %0 Generic %D 1999 %T X-Ray Diffractometric Analysis of Microstructure of Naturally Colored Cotton %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B American Chemical Society National Meeting %C Anaheim, CA %8 1999 %G eng %2 c %4 58369032192 %$ 58369032192 %0 Generic %D 1999 %T X-Ray Diffractometric Study of the Effects of Laundry on the Microcrystallite Size of Naturally Colored Cottons %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Santa Fe, NM %8 1999 %G eng %2 c %4 58368876544 %$ 58368876544 %0 Generic %D 1998 %T Microwave Disinfestation of Cellulytic Fungi and Effects of Microwave Radiation on Cellulose Fiber Microstructure %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Dallas, TX %8 1998 %G eng %2 c %4 58369206272 %$ 58369206272 %0 Journal Article %J Journal of Archaeological Science %D 1998 %T Preservation of Archaeological Cellulosic Fibers Through Mineralization %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Jakes,K A %A Foreman ,D W %K Design Program %B Journal of Archaeological Science %P 1015-1021 %8 1998 %G eng %N 25 %2 a %4 58368518144 %$ 58368518144 %0 Generic %D 1997 %T Laboratory Simulation of Plant Fiber Mineralization %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Foreman,D W %A Jakes,K A %K Design Program %B Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Knoxville, TN %8 1997 %G eng %2 c %4 58369234944 %$ 58369234944 %0 Generic %D 1996 %T Characterizing Naturally Colored Cotton Fibers by ATR Infrared Spectroscopy %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B Annual Meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association %C Banff, Alberta, Canada %8 1996 %G eng %2 c %4 58369255424 %$ 58369255424 %0 Journal Article %J Textile Research Journal %D 1996 %T SEM, EDS, and FTIR Examination of Archaeological Mineralized Plant Fibers %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Jakes,K A %A Foreman,D W %K Design Program %B Textile Research Journal %V 64 %P 219-224 %8 1996 %G eng %N 4 %2 a %4 58368606208 %$ 58368606208 %0 Generic %D 1995 %T Diffractometric Study of Archaeological Mineralized Plant Fiber Microstructure %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Foreman,D W %A Jakes,K A %K Design Program %B American Chemical Society National Meeting %C Anaheim, CA %8 1995 %G eng %2 c %4 58369275904 %$ 58369275904 %0 Journal Article %J Textile Chemist and Colorist %D 1995 %T Experimental Methods For The Analysis of Dye Desorption %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Noel,C J %K Design Program %B Textile Chemist and Colorist %V 27 %P 23-27 %8 1995 %G eng %N 2 %2 a %4 58368638976 %$ 58368638976 %0 Journal Article %J Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal %D 1994 %T Application of Recycled Post-Consumer Fibers %A Chang,Y %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %K Design Program %B Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal %V 27 %P 320-340 %8 1994 %G eng %N 1 %2 a %4 58368483328 %$ 58368483328 %0 Journal Article %J Ars Textrina %D 1993 %T Toward the Development of a Classification System for Plant Fibers %A Jakes,K A %A Chen,Hsiou-Lien %A Sibley,L R %K Design Program %B Ars Textrina %V 20 %P 157-179 %8 1993 %G eng %2 a %4 58368673792 %$ 58368673792